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Tsuwano: Stepping Back in Time, Off-the-beaten-track

Ready for an Adventure? Discovering Tsuwano from Iwakuni, Yamaguchi

Living and working in Japan has come with many unexpected perks — one of my favorites being the ability to explore beautiful, lesser-known towns during my free time. This week, I went on a spontaneous adventure from my home in Iwakuni to the charming town of Tsuwano in Shimane Prefecture. If you're near Hiroshima or Yamaguchi, it's a wonderful off-the-beaten-path escape that feels like stepping back in time.

No matter how you choose to travel, it takes about 90 minutes from Iwakuni to Tsuwano. This time, I took the Shinkansen to Shin-Yamaguchi and then hopped on an express train — the perfect combination for a scenic journey through bamboo forests and into the mountains.

What is a White-Walled Town?

Tsuwano is known as a white-walled town — a term that refers to historic towns in Japan where traditional buildings are preserved with white plaster walls and black tiled roofs. These towns offer a glimpse into Japan’s past, often lined with quaint shops, galleries, and tea houses. The aesthetic is peaceful and nostalgic, making places like Tsuwano a joy to explore.

Why I Love Tsuwano

Nestled in the mountains of western Japan, Tsuwano is sometimes called the “Little Kyoto” of Shimane Prefecture. While it doesn’t have the size or grandeur of Kyoto, it has its own quiet charm. The view from the top of Taikodani Inari Shrine — with its hundreds of red torii gates — looks like something out of a travel magazine.

Link: Taikodani Inari-jinja Shrine

From the train station, it's just a 10-minute walk down Tonomachi-dori Street, the town’s preserved main road. Here, you’ll encounter one of Tsuwano’s most unique features: koi fish swimming in the gutters!, actual koi swimming along the gutters!

Favorite Hidden Spot: Cafe & Hostel TMC

Just before you begin the trail up to the shrine, I discovered a cozy little spot that has become a must-stop every time I visit: Cafe & Hostel TMC. It’s tucked away near the end of town, and they always have a comforting daily special, along with the most refreshing handmade lemonade or ginger ale. If you’re lucky, you might catch their daily dessert special, which never disappoints.

Link: https://www.tmc-tha.com

While I haven’t stayed overnight at the hostel, the reviews are consistently excellent, and the ambiance makes it a perfect rest stop before or after your hike to the shrine.

Why Tsuwano is Worth the Trip

Because Tsuwano is off the beaten path, it rarely feels crowded—even on weekends. That’s part of its charm. It’s peaceful, slow-paced, and full of  history. Whether you’re a history buff, nature lover, or simply someone looking for a quiet escape, Tsuwano offers a beautifully preserved slice of Japan that feels almost like a secret.

Final Thoughts

Living in Japan has given me the gift of time to explore places like Tsuwano, and every time I go, I leave feeling refreshed and inspired. If you’re anywhere near Yamaguchi or Hiroshima, carve out a day for this quiet mountain town—you won’t regret it.

Overview of Tsuwano:  https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/126/

                     

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